Installation

For printable PDF intructions please click here

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
All electrical work must be done with the power off by
trained HVAC technicians and to all governing codes.

ECM Motors

ECM motors are designed for continuous operation
ECM motors should not be turned on and off by by switching the line voltage to the motor.
They should only be activated by switching the low voltage to the ecMModulator.
The motor’s high voltage supply terminates in a five position (socket) plug that plugs into the motor’s 5-pin socket.
The 3-prong plug at the opposite end from the high voltage wire is ready for 115/120 vac (standard household current) voltage.
For higher voltages, see the instructions below.

115/120 Volt

The high voltage cord and 5-pin plug
are configured for 115/120 volt applivation.

208/230 Volt

For 208/230 volt application,
cut the Yellow wire as shown. Then
wire nut the ends of the wires. Next,
tape over the wire nuts to further secure
them.

When using the high voltage option of 208/230/277 volts to the motor, remove the 120 volt plug, expose the wire ends and attach the green wire to earth ground, the black and
white to L1 @ L2.

NEXT, PLUG THE 5-PIN PLUG
INTO THE FIVE-PIN HI VOLTAGE
SOCKET.

Plug one end of the low voltage

Pulse Width control cable into the

ecMModulator and the other end

into the motor’s 4-pin socket.

CONTROL MODES

The following control modes are some of the obvious strategies that can be employed.
The ecMModulator can be used for a wide variety of applications and we can program the
ecMModulator to suit a wide variety of specialized applications.
TRUE FURNACE MODULATION OF HEAT, COOL & IAQ

Before getting into the different modes available for the ecMModulator, you might want to get an overview of the basic operation by viewing this video.

In this mode, and most other modes, the temperature sensor is mounted in the delivered air. In all cases, you are trying to get a well mixed sample of the air that is going into the building. Usually high up in one of the trunk lines and close to the plenum will give you a good sample. From there, the ecMM odulator response is: With no heat or cool and delivered air between about 62° and 80° the blower will be at the (adjustable) minimum IAQ speed. You can set this minimum speed from super low (say 100 rpm) to close to full speed. When the burner, electric strip heater, hot water coil, etc comes on and the delivered air begins to warm, the blower’s speed will follow the temperature/speed line to the right. There is no way to blow a cold draft. Because of the immediate but smooth response, there is no way the heat can get ahead of the blower speed. When the heat turns off, the blower’s speed follows the same path down.

AIR CONDITIONING

When the AC turns on, the coil gets cold very quickly. This allows the coil to latch on to the latent load. A couple seconds later, the sensor detects the cold temperature and ramps the speed faster. Because of the instant speed/ temperature response, it can’t slug. Because the compressor has a fixed capacity, and because the coil has latched onto the latent load first, and because the blower’s speed has not overpowered the coil’s latent capacity, the latent/sensible ratio remains weighted towards latent. The ratio will stay pretty much the same until the latent load decreases. On a new (high humidity) installation you will notice that the blower doesn’t reach full speed and the delivered air temperature seems a bit warm. However, when you put your gauges on, you’ll notice that the machine is running full capacity. When you look at the overflow it will be running water down the drain at a fast pace. The reason for this is that much of the compressor’s capacity is still working on the latent load. An example would be: with an indoor RH of 78% on the installation day with maybe 55° delivered air temperature. The next day it might be RH 65% with delivered air 53°. Pretty soon the system will be putting out pretty close to 50° and the RH will be in the low 50% range, This is a quick and rough explanation. This is the operation in all air conditioning modes. More on this later. When the compressor shuts off, The delivered air temperature rises rapidly, and the blower’s speed drops with the temperature rise. This process is quick enough to keep from blowing water off the coil. Thus it allows constant fan even in the muggiest climates. From that point on, the system takes full advantage of the refrigeration and latent capturing effect of pressure equalization.

Terminals 3 & 4 will accept a dry contact ( NO APPLIED VOLTAGE! ) From a humidistat, relay, or can be jumpered for permanent setting. By shorting between terminals 3 & 4 the (HUM SET) Humidity Set potentiometer allowes you to adjust the cooling temperature speed line. This can be done with a simple return air humidistat, room humidistat, relay, or they can be jumpered for special conditions. We recommend this be done only by highly qualified, experienced (a/c refrigeration) technicians. We do not recommend that this be done without first monitoring the installation for several days. We do not recommend that this be done without hooking up and watching the refrigerant gauges.

Terminals 7 & 8 can be shorted together to place the ecMM odulator into the heat pump mode. In this mode of operation, the heating temperature speed line is steeper so that the blower reaches top speed at 115°. The air conditioning is not affected and remains the same as in the other modes. When there is no heating or cooling, the blower’s speed is in the adjustable minimum (IAQ) speed. When the system switches to heat, the blower is loafing along at the adjustable minimum IAQ speed. This results in immediately building head pressure. Head pressure results in immediate heat. The system cannot blow cold. As the delivered air temperature increases, the blowers speed increases. Temperature and speed are locked together. This action can be compared to having a extremely high quality head pressure control operating the indoor fan. The result of this action is an average increase in delivered air temperature of about 15° and a significant lowering of the balance point and increased energy efficiency. 10% is common.

CRUISE CONTROL FOR ZONED SYSTEMS
ROCK SOLID PRESSURE CONTROL
BY ELIMINATING BYPASS DUCTS AND DUMP ZONES

Setting Your Maximum Duct Pressure

On the ecMModulator 4 Z controls the HI SET pot is used to adjust the pressure limit. Turning the
pot clockwise will increase the maximum duct pressure and counter clockwise will decrease the
maximum duct pressure. 2 full turns will approximately equal 0.1" wc. ecMModulator 4 Z controls
are shipped with a factory duct pressure setting of about 0.3” wc. Before you begin setting the
pressure re-move the temperature sensor wire from the control (top terminal). This will drive the
blower up to and slightly past the present pressure setting speed. Wait while the blower’s speed
settles before changing the pressure setting. If you want to control from pressure alone, then just
remove the temperature sensor and leave it off. A step by step procedure for adjusting the
pressure is listed below.

1. Re-move the temperature sensor wire from the control to cause the motor to go full speed.
2. For a higher pressure, turn the screw on the HI SET pot clockwise.
3. For a lower pressure, turn the screw on the HI SET pot counterclockwise.
4. If the pressure is close to what you want, turn the pot slowly about a quarter turn at a time to
give the motor and control time to adjust. A rough calculation is that about two turns will change
the pressure about 0.1” wc.
5. When you are at or above the programmed pressure setting, the ZO light will be on.
6. If you overshoot the adjustment and wish to reverse the setting you made, you can figure that
it takes about 1/4 turn to take up the slack in the pot’s clutch before you will notice a change.
8 Once you achieve the pressure setting you want, reconnect the sensor wire.

CAUTION - THE TRANSDUCER IS A VERY SENSITIVE AND EXPENSIVE DEVICE. DO NOT BLOW INTO THE TUBING OR SUBJECT IT TO HIGHER THAN ACCEPTABLE SYSTEM PRESSURES!!!!!!!!

FREQUENCY DRIVES

All of the previously described features that are built into the ecMModulator control can be used to control frequency drives for large three-phase fans, pumps, or any equipment that accepts a Pulse Width modulation or 0 to 10vdc signal. There are a large number of applications for the ecMModulator. Some suggestions are: Control of parallel piped ECM pumps that feed mixing valves could accept the signal from building automation controls. This could save huge amounts of energy and do away with three way valves. Rooftop HVAC units located in facilities where they do not have building automation. Upgrading millions of rooftop gas packs. Control of terminal fan boxes. Control cooling tower fans to maintain steady temperature to large chillers. The energy saving, comfort producing list is endless.

FanHandler Inc. www.fanhandler.com Dallas, OR 97338

For printable PDF intructions please click here: ecMModulator_Installation.pdf

Sensor Placement

Trouble Shooting Guide

Problem: Motor is not spinning

Cause	Solution
No Power to control	First check for lights on the control. If there are no lights, you are not getting power to the control. Use a multi meter to check for 24VAC at the input terminal.
Pressure limit set too low or pressure tube is crimped (Model 4Z only)	Take note of which lights are on. If the red ZO (zone) light is on there may be a crimp in the pressure tube or it is pinched somewhere. Check the pressure tubing and fix anything that looks like it maybe blocking the control from receiving proper air flow. If there is nothing obstructing the air flow to the control and the zone light is still on, the pressure limit may be set too low. Adjust it up by turning the high speed pot clockwise 1 to 2 full turns and see if the light goes off. If it goes off your motor should come on and begin to pick up speed.
Motor is not getting power	First check that the high voltage going to the motor is a constant voltage source capable of handling the current draw of your motor. Also check that the power connector is fully seated into the motor and that the yellow jumper on the power connector is intact for 120V operation and clipped for 240V operation. If 240V was applied to the motor with the yellow wire intact then your motor may be blown. Please contact FanHandler for a replacement.
Motor is not receiving a signal from the control	You can check that the control is outputting a signal with a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the 20Vdc range and check for voltage across terminals 9 and 10. If the voltage measured is between 0.7Vdc and 10Vdc, the control is putting out a signal to the motor. Check that the control signal cable is properly seated into both the control and the motor. If the cable is properly connected and the motor still doesn’t spin, there may be a break in the cable. Check that you are getting a signal at the motor end of the cable with your multimeter. If you are getting a voltage less then 0.7Vdc your minimum speed is set too low. Adjust the minimum speed.

Problem: Motor spins but will not ramp up speed with temperature

Cause	Solution
Improper placement of temperature sensor	Check the temperature at the sensor to make sure you are getting the temperature that you expect. Remember the fan speed is proportional to the temperature seen by the control. The fan should start to pick up speed at 78 degrees on the heating side and 62 degrees on the cooling side.
Pressure setting too low	Check to see if the Zone light is on. If so, try adjusting the pressure setting. If the zone light is not on, it could be the control trying to limit the pressure (it’s just not quite fast enough for the light to come on). Try adjusting the HI SET pot clock wise.

Problem: Motor spins and picks up speed but not fast enough

Cause	Solution
Improper placement of temperature sensor	Check the temperature at the sensor to make sure it is getting an accurate temperature reading. On the heating side the fan will start to pick up speed at 78deg and hit top speed at 115deg in heat pump mode and 130deg in furnace mode. On the cooling side the fan will begin to pick up speed at 62 degrees and hit top speed at 54degrees. (For more details please refer to sensor placement guide).

Problem: Motor ramps with temperature but doesn’t react as zones open and close

Cause

Solution

Improper placement of the pressure plate

(Model 4Z only)

Make sure the pressure pickup plate is placed before all dampers and located in a part of the duct that has good air flow. You want to avoid places where there may be an air pocket; such as, right after a corner. Check that the pressure tube is properly connected and not crimped or pinched.

Problem: Speed ramps up fine in heating but not fast enough in cooling

Cause

Solution

Improper placement of temperature sensor

Check the temperature at the sensor to make sure it is getting an accurate temperature reading.

(Optional)

If you are not using a humidifier or dehumidifier, you can adjust the cooling ramp with the humidity pot (HUM pot). First place a jumper across terminals 3 and 4. This will put the control into humidity mode. By default, the HUM pot is turned down about 9 turns for a speed drop of about 100 rpm. You will need to adjust this by turning the pot clockwise 9 full turns, to bring the ramp back to center. From here you can continue turning the HUM pot clockwise to begin to raise the cooling ramp. Turning counter clockwise will lower the cooling ramp.

Problem: Speed ramps up fine in cooling but not fast enough in heating

Cause

Solution

Improper placement of temperature sensor

This is most likely a sensor placement issue. Check the temperature at the sensor to make sure it is getting an accurate temperature reading.

(Optional)

If this is a furnace application and you want the control to ramp up faster in heating, you can set the control to heat pump mode. In heat pump mode the control will ramp up to full speed quicker on the heating side while leaving the cooling side unaffected.

Yellow Sensor Temperature To Resistance Chart